Shibori is a Japanese word that refers to the process of “resist dyeing” by binding, stitching, folding, clamping, and/or wrapping fabric. The cloth is prepared and dyed to create elaborate pieces of textile art. This technique is referred to as plangi in Indonesia, and bandhani in India. Techniques to bind and resist cloth to create beautiful results have been used all over the world including Africa, Peru, Asia, and more currently in the United States.


Although the idea of tie-dyeing may bring to mind t-shirts rolled up and dunked in dye to form swirls of color, Shibori is not your typical tie-dye of the 1960’s. This process was once used exclusively for the Imperial family and some of the techniques date back to the early sixth century. A technique that was once restricted due to its high value and popular demand, Shibori and other forms of textile art run the risk of being lost due to the fast pace of modern industrialism and the decreased value put on artisans’ time. At one time this art form involved many communities to complete. I have read that a “master level” artisan would make patterns and mark the fabric. It would then be sent out to area villages trained in the art of binding fabric. Each village would work on their particular pieces of cloth for several months, usually during the winter. It was then sent to a “master dyer” in the spring. After the dye had been formulated and the pieces dyed to satisfaction, the “master dyer” would then send the fabric to another set of artisans to meticulously remove all of the bindings from the cloth. Sometimes there would be over 100,000 knots in a single piece of fabric! At the end of this process, the fabric would then be sewn into kimonos and other garments. This art form impressed me so much that I began to study Shibori techniques and to practice on different fabrics using some traditional and some not-so-traditional materials and tools to create beautiful designs based on this wonderful technique.
 

Definitions:

  
Kumo (Spiderweb) est. 12th century
This pattern is created by tightly binding small folded areas of cloth to resist the dye in order to create a design very simple in structure, but complex in its color’s depth and tone. Like snowflakes, no two Kumo designs are alike.		  
   
Arashi (pole wrapped cloth)
Arashi is translated as “Storm,” and was invented in 1880 by Kanezo Suzuki in Aramatsu. This wonderful technique involves wrapping the fabric tightly around a pole using a waxed string to create fine lines, compressing the fabric into tight segments before dyeing the piece. The fabric is completely dried and then unwrapped. This process, when used with silk, creates deep contrasting patterns which will keep their unique shape and texture as long as the fabric remains dry.
   
Kikko Kumo
Similiar to Kumo, Kikko is created by folding the fabric. The center is pulled taunt and a toothpick is bound against it.
   
Flowers
The small clover flower petals are created by drawing the design on the fabric, sewing around the edges with waxed thread, and gathering tightly before the dye process. The small centers are then bound into Kumos. Once the thread is removed, the resisted outline of the flower appears as a soft line with a faint halo.
   
Tesuji (hand pleating)
This resist method has been used in Japan for at least 300 years. The variations in the width of the pleating and the resist effect of the binding thread create visually interesting patterns on the fabric.		  
   
Itajime (clamping)
This technique is thought to have been developed in 19th century Japan, however there are earlier examples from as far back as the 8th century. Itajime is the technique of securing fabric between two similar shapes. It’s then dyed and rinsed before releasing. One style I enjoy using is called Sanakaku which involves folding the cloth and creating the resist with triangular blocking.
   
Yamamichi (mountain path)
This technique is created by pleating thin bands that zigzag across the cloth, suggesting a mountain path. The pleating process is called “age-sage” and the actual designs created are called Yamamichi.		  
   
Yokobiko Kanoko
Traditionally these angular shapes were bound tightly together to form an “all-over” pattern. I utilize the techinique to create small areas of visual interest.